Ashley Piercing Guide: Pain, Healing, Risks, and Care

An Ashley piercing is a lower-lip piercing that enters through the visible center of the lip and exits inside the mouth. It is professionally known as an inverse vertical labret. Only the decorative end is normally visible from the front, creating the appearance of a small gem or bead resting directly on the lower lip. (Clementine Piercing)

Unlike a standard vertical labret, an Ashley piercing has an internal end that can contact oral tissue, teeth, or gums. This makes correct placement, suitable initial jewelry, timely downsizing, oral hygiene, and long-term dental monitoring especially important.

Complete healing commonly takes several months. Professional sources often estimate approximately three to four months, although some piercers advise allowing as long as six months before assuming the internal channel is fully mature. A piercing that no longer feels sore is not necessarily completely healed. (Urban Body Jewelry)

The American Dental Association advises against cosmetic intraoral and perioral piercings because they can increase the risk of gum damage, tooth injury, infection, swelling, allergic reactions, and other negative oral-health outcomes. Anyone considering an Ashley piercing should understand these risks before making the decision. (ADA)

Ashley Piercing at a Glance

The cost, jewelry style, post length, gauge, healing time, and suitability depend on the studio, piercer, lip anatomy, oral anatomy, jewelry material, and local market. (Clementine Piercing)

What Does an Ashley Piercing Look Like?

From the front, an Ashley piercing usually looks like one small bead, disk, gemstone, or decorative end placed near the center of the lower lip.

The jewelry travels inward through the lip and ends inside the mouth. Because the lower exit is hidden, the piercing creates a cleaner, single-point appearance than a standard vertical labret.

Placement can be:

• Directly on the center line
• Slightly higher or lower according to anatomy
• Slightly off-center when required for safe positioning
• Adjusted to limit contact with teeth and gums

The safest position cannot be selected from a photograph alone. Lip thickness, bite, tooth position, gumline, blood vessels, existing piercings, scars, fillers, and natural asymmetry can affect whether the piercing is suitable.

A professional consultation should include an inspection of both the outside of the lip and the inside of the mouth before the piercer opens sterile equipment.

Ashley Piercing vs Vertical Labret

These two piercings are often confused because both pass vertically through the lower lip.

A standard vertical labret normally keeps both jewelry ends outside the mouth. This can reduce direct contact with teeth and gums, although it still carries the general risks associated with a healing lip piercing. (Byrdie)

Someone who likes the central-lip appearance but is concerned about dental contact should ask a qualified piercer whether a vertical labret would better suit their anatomy and priorities.

Ashley Piercing vs Traditional Labret

A traditional labret is placed through the skin below the lower lip and exits inside the mouth. Its visible decorative end sits below the lip rather than directly on the colored lip tissue.

An Ashley piercing reverses the visible placement:

• Traditional labret: Decoration below the lip
• Ashley piercing: Decoration on the lip
• Vertical labret: One end below and one end on the lip, with no oral exit

All three require different placement angles and jewelry. They should not be treated as interchangeable holes that can later use every style of lip jewelry.

Does an Ashley Piercing Hurt?

Pain cannot be predicted with a reliable universal number.

The needle passes through sensitive lip tissue, so most people should expect a brief sharp sensation, pressure, and immediate soreness. The lip may feel swollen, warm, tender, or awkward during eating and speaking for the first several days.

Pain can vary according to:

• Individual pain tolerance
• Lip thickness
• Anxiety
• Placement
• Piercer technique
• Needle quality
• Jewelry insertion
• Existing scar tissue
• Initial swelling
• Accidental biting or snagging

Oral and perioral piercings commonly cause some pain and swelling during the first several days. Pain that becomes progressively worse rather than gradually improving may indicate irritation, embedding, pressure from jewelry, or infection. (ADA)

A piercer should not promise that the procedure will be painless. They should explain each step, inspect the anatomy, use a fresh sterile needle, and allow the client to stop before the procedure begins.

How an Ashley Piercing Is Performed

Techniques vary among qualified professionals, but a safe appointment generally includes the following stages.

1. Consultation and anatomy assessment

The piercer examines:

• Lip thickness
• Tooth position
• Gumline
• Bite
• Natural lip movement
• Existing oral jewelry
• Scars or previous piercings
• Facial symmetry
• Possible contact points inside the mouth

A reputable piercer may refuse the procedure when the anatomy does not provide a safe channel or when the jewelry would rest directly against vulnerable gum tissue or teeth.

2. Placement marking

The visible point is marked while the client is upright and relaxed.

The client should inspect the mark before agreeing to continue. A centered appearance may require subtle adjustment because lips and teeth are not perfectly symmetrical.

3. Cleaning and sterile preparation

The piercer should:

• Wash their hands
• Wear fresh disposable gloves
• Use properly sterilized jewelry
• Open a fresh sterile single-use needle
• Use sterilized reusable instruments when needed
• Dispose of the needle in a sharps container

The Association of Professional Piercers and Mayo Clinic recommend fresh sterile needles and proper autoclave sterilization rather than reusable piercing guns. (Safe Piercing)

4. Piercing and jewelry insertion

The needle passes from the visible lip surface toward the inside of the mouth, following the angle selected during the consultation.

Initial jewelry must provide enough room for swelling. Jewelry that fits perfectly on the first day may become dangerously tight when the lip expands.

5. Written aftercare and follow-up plan

The studio should explain:

• External cleaning
• Oral cleaning
• Swelling management
• Eating precautions
• Products to avoid
• Warning signs
• Follow-up timing
• Jewelry downsizing
• Emergency contact procedures

A studio that performs the piercing without arranging follow-up support is a poor choice.

What Jewelry Is Used?

An Ashley piercing normally uses professionally fitted post-style jewelry with a decorative visible end and a low-profile end inside the mouth.

The exact jewelry design may vary according to anatomy and piercer technique. A straight labret-style post is common, although some experienced piercers may choose another properly fitted design when the anatomy requires it.

The initial piece should have:

• Enough length for swelling
• A smooth oral end
• No sharp edges
• A high-quality polish
• Secure threading or threadless construction
• Documented body-compatible material
• A decorative end sized for the lip
• An angle that reduces tooth and gum contact

The Association of Professional Piercers advises that initial jewelry should have a smooth surface and use internal threading or an appropriate threadless design so rough external threads do not pass through fresh tissue. (Safe Piercing)

Suitable initial jewelry materials

Common professional options include:

• Implant-grade titanium meeting an applicable ASTM or ISO standard
• Implant-grade steel meeting an appropriate standard
• Niobium
• Solid 14-karat or higher biocompatible gold
• Suitable platinum alloys
• Approved glass in placements where appropriate

Generic descriptions such as “titanium,” “surgical steel,” or “hypoallergenic” do not prove that a piece meets an implant standard.

Implant-grade titanium is often chosen because it is lightweight and does not contain nickel in the same way many steel alloys do. Nickel is a frequent cause of jewelry-related allergic contact dermatitis. (Safe Piercing)

Avoid using:

• Plated mystery metal
• Sterling silver in a fresh piercing
• Cheap externally threaded jewelry
• Acrylic in a fresh piercing
• Jewelry without traceable material information
• A hoop selected without professional approval
• Jewelry purchased only because it looks attractive online

Why Downsizing Matters

The initial post is intentionally longer to accommodate swelling. Once swelling decreases, the extra length can become a hazard.

An overly long post may:

• Strike the teeth
• Rub the gums
• Catch while eating
• Move excessively
• Increase irritation
• Change the piercing angle
• Collect more plaque
• Become accidentally bitten
• Contribute to migration or scar tissue

Both the Association of Professional Piercers and American Dental Association recommend returning to the piercer for shorter jewelry after initial swelling subsides. This change should be based on healing progress rather than a fixed date copied from social media. (Safe Piercing)

Do not change or shorten the post yourself while the piercing is swollen or immature. The opening may tighten quickly, and reinsertion can injure the healing channel.

How Long Does an Ashley Piercing Take to Heal?

Plan for a healing process measured in months.

Many professional piercing sources estimate:

• Initial settling: Several weeks
• Common full-healing estimate: Around 3 to 4 months
• Possible extended healing: Up to 6 months or longer

Healing may take longer when the piercing is repeatedly touched, bitten, moved, changed too early, exposed to smoking, irritated by makeup, or fitted with unsuitable jewelry. (Urban Body Jewelry)

First several days

Common early effects can include:

• Swelling
• Tenderness
• Mild bleeding
• A tight feeling
• Difficulty eating large bites
• Increased awareness of the jewelry
• Clear or pale fluid
• Light crusting on the external end

The ADA notes that pain and swelling commonly occur during the first five days after oral piercing. (ADA)

Following weeks

Swelling should gradually decrease. The piercing may feel comfortable during normal activity but remain vulnerable to pulling, biting, makeup, jewelry changes, and oral contact.

This is often when the longer initial jewelry requires professional downsizing.

Following months

The inner channel continues maturing after the visible surface appears settled.

Do not use the absence of pain as proof that the piercing can tolerate every jewelry style or repeated removal.

Ashley Piercing Aftercare

An Ashley piercing requires both external body-piercing care and internal oral care.

Follow the written instructions given by the qualified piercer who performed the procedure. Product availability, local guidance, anatomy, and healing complications can affect the exact routine.

Cleaning the Outside of the Lip

The Association of Professional Piercers recommends packaged sterile saline wound wash with 0.9% sodium chloride as the active ingredient. Products containing moisturizers, antibacterial additives, medication, or unrelated ingredients should be avoided. (Safe Piercing)

A basic external routine is:

1. Wash your hands.
2. Spray the outside with sterile saline as needed.
3. Allow crust to soften rather than scraping it.
4. Rinse gently during a normal shower.
5. Pat dry with clean disposable paper or allow it to air-dry.
6. Leave the jewelry in place.

Do not rotate, twist, slide, or spin the jewelry while cleaning. Movement can damage developing tissue and move bacteria or debris into the channel. (Safe Piercing)

Do not mix strong salt water at home

The APP no longer recommends homemade sea-salt mixtures as the first choice because they are easily mixed too strongly and may over-dry or irritate the piercing. Use properly labeled sterile wound-wash saline when available. (Safe Piercing)

Products to keep away from the piercing

Avoid:

• Hydrogen peroxide
• Rubbing alcohol
• Iodine
• Harsh antibacterial soap
• Ointments
• Tea tree oil
• Acne medication
• Lip scrub
• Lipstick
• Lip gloss
• Foundation
• Fragranced skincare
• Unverified piercing solutions

Harsh products can damage healing tissue and prolong irritation. (Mayo Clinic)

Cleaning Inside the Mouth

The internal end collects saliva, food residue, and plaque, so oral hygiene matters.

The APP suggests using:

• Alcohol-free and hydrogen peroxide-free mouth rinse
• Plain clean water
• Normal tooth-brushing and flossing
• External sterile saline only on the outside of the lip

Sterile wound-wash saline is not intended to be swallowed or routinely used as an internal mouth rinse. (Safe Piercing)

A practical routine includes:

1. Brush twice daily with fluoride toothpaste and a soft-bristle toothbrush.
2. Floss or use another interdental cleaner.
3. Rinse gently after meals.
4. Use alcohol-free mouth rinse as directed.
5. Keep the internal jewelry end free from visible plaque.
6. Avoid biting, sucking, rolling, or playing with the post.

The ADA recommends twice-daily brushing, interdental cleaning, and alcohol-free mouth rinse during and after healing. (ADA)

Eating With a New Ashley Piercing

The longer initial post can catch on teeth while chewing.

During early swelling:

• Take smaller bites.
• Eat slowly.
• Keep food away from the jewelry where possible.
• Avoid opening the mouth excessively wide.
• Check that the post is not being bitten.
• Rinse with clean water after eating.
• Avoid sharing cups, utensils, and food.
• Avoid chewing gum, fingernails, pencils, or other objects.

The APP specifically warns that lip and cheek jewelry can catch on teeth when the mouth opens too widely. (Safe Piercing)

Cool foods and cold-water rinses may feel soothing during early swelling. Avoid applying ice directly to the tissue for prolonged periods.

What to Avoid During Healing

Avoid unnecessary trauma from:

• Playing with the jewelry
• Biting the internal end
• Wet kissing
• Oral sexual contact
• Smoking or vaping
• Recreational drugs
• Excessive alcohol during bleeding or swelling
• Sharing drinks or utensils
• Swimming pools
• Hot tubs
• Lakes and rivers
• Lip makeup
• Premature jewelry changes
• Sleeping with pressure against the lip
• Contact sports without professional advice

The APP advises avoiding oral contact, smoking, alcohol-containing mouthwash, sharing utensils, and submerging healing piercings in potentially contaminated water. (Safe Piercing)

Dental and Gum Risks

The main difference between an Ashley piercing and an entirely external vertical labret is the jewelry inside the mouth.

Possible long-term effects include:

• Gum irritation
• Gum recession
• Tooth enamel wear
• Chipped or cracked teeth
• Damage to fillings, crowns, or other restorations
• Plaque accumulation
• Periodontal inflammation
• Accidental swallowing of a loose end
• Jewelry embedding
• Interference with eating or speech

The ADA reports that lip and tongue jewelry can damage teeth and gums, harbor bacteria, and contribute to plaque accumulation. It formally advises against cosmetic intraoral and perioral piercings because of the increased risk of negative health outcomes. (ADA)

Correct placement and downsizing may reduce contact, but they cannot guarantee that the piercing will never affect oral structures.

Watch the inside of the mouth

Inspect regularly for:

• A flat back digging deeply into tissue
• Gum redness
• Gum recession
• Tooth sensitivity
• Enamel marks
• Chipped edges
• Bleeding gums
• Persistent plaque around the jewelry
• Pain when biting
• A post that repeatedly strikes a tooth

Arrange dental evaluation when these changes appear. Waiting until a tooth breaks or gum recession becomes severe can make treatment more difficult.

Is Nesting Normal?

A properly fitted flat internal end may sit in a shallow natural indentation inside the lip once swelling has resolved. Piercers often call this nesting.

Nesting is not the same as embedding.

Possible normal nesting

• The jewelry remains visible when the lip is gently moved.
• There is no worsening pain.
• Tissue is not closing over the end.
• The post can move slightly without force.
• The indentation remains stable.

Possible embedding

• Tissue begins covering the jewelry.
• The end becomes difficult or impossible to see.
• Swelling is increasing.
• Pain or pressure is worsening.
• The jewelry appears trapped.
• The post is clearly too short.

Embedding requires prompt professional assessment. Do not attempt to cut, push, or dig the jewelry out yourself.

Normal Healing vs Possible Infection

Some swelling, tenderness, light crusting, and pale secretion can occur during early healing.

Seek medical advice for:

• Worsening redness
• Increasing heat
• Severe throbbing pain
• Thick yellow, green, or foul-smelling discharge
• Fever or chills
• Red streaks
• Significant facial swelling
• Persistent bleeding
• Swollen lymph nodes
• Rapidly worsening symptoms
• Difficulty swallowing
• Difficulty breathing
• Jewelry disappearing into the tissue

Mayo Clinic identifies redness, pain, swelling, and pus-like drainage as possible signs of piercing infection. Prompt treatment can help prevent more serious complications. (Mayo Clinic)

Breathing difficulty, major swelling, uncontrolled bleeding, or rapidly progressing oral symptoms require urgent medical attention.

Do not independently remove jewelry from a suspected infection without discussing the situation with a healthcare professional. Closing the outer opening may interfere with drainage, while leaving unsuitable jewelry in place can also create problems. The decision depends on the condition and must be made professionally. (Safe Piercing)

How Much Does an Ashley Piercing Cost?

A current US planning range for the piercing service is approximately $40 to $100 before jewelry.

The final price can include:

• Piercing fee
• Initial post
• Decorative end
• Implant-grade material
• Gemstone upgrade
• Sterilization and studio costs
• Follow-up visit
• Downsizing jewelry
• Local sales tax
• Gratuity

A professional piercing studio in New York currently cites a $40 to $100 service range before jewelry, while actual pricing varies widely by location, jewelry, and piercer expertise. (Clementine Piercing)

Do not choose a studio because it provides the cheapest total. Poor placement, low-quality jewelry, weak sterilization, or no follow-up support can create dental and medical costs much higher than the original piercing fee.

Ask whether downsizing jewelry and the follow-up appointment are included.

How to Choose a Safe Piercer

Use the Association of Professional Piercers member locator as one starting point, while still evaluating the individual studio and piercer.

Before booking, confirm that the piercer:

• Regularly performs Ashley or inverse vertical labret piercings
• Shows healed examples, not only fresh photographs
• Inspects the inside of the mouth
• Discusses tooth and gum contact
• Is willing to refuse unsuitable anatomy
• Uses fresh sterile single-use needles
• Uses an appropriate autoclave
• Can show sterilizer test records
• Uses traceable implant-grade jewelry
• Provides written aftercare
• Schedules a downsize review
• Explains what to do during complications
• Follows applicable local licensing rules

APP membership can be a useful indicator, but membership alone does not replace a careful consultation.

Do not use a piercing gun, home kit, sewing needle, safety pin, or online step-by-step piercing tutorial. The Ashley placement passes through mobile, vascular lip tissue and exits inside a bacteria-rich oral environment.

Who May Need Additional Medical or Dental Advice?

Speak with a qualified healthcare or dental professional before booking when you have:

• Active gum disease
• Significant gum recession
• Weak or damaged front teeth
• Crowns, veneers, or restorations near the placement
• Braces or other orthodontic appliances
• A history of serious metal allergy
• A bleeding disorder
• Immune suppression
• Poorly controlled diabetes
• Active oral infection
• Recurrent mouth ulcers
• Planned dental surgery
• Previous lip surgery
• Lip filler or other recent cosmetic treatment
• A history of severe scarring or keloids

This does not mean every listed condition automatically prevents piercing. It means the risks and timing need individual assessment.

Can You Get an Ashley Piercing With Braces?

Braces add brackets and wires that can catch or rub against internal lip jewelry.

The combination may increase:

• Snagging
• Tissue injury
• Plaque retention
• Difficulty cleaning
• Accidental biting
• Damage to orthodontic equipment

Ask both the orthodontist and an experienced piercer before proceeding. Waiting until braces are removed may be the safer and more practical option.

Will an Ashley Piercing Leave a Scar?

Any piercing can leave a permanent mark.

After removal, an Ashley piercing may leave:

• A small dot
• A shallow indentation
• Pigment change
• Firm scar tissue
• A more visible scar after migration, infection, or tearing

The APP notes that body piercings create permanent changes even when the remaining scar is small. (Safe Piercing)

Do not assume that the hole will disappear completely because the jewelry is small.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is it called an Ashley piercing?

The term “Ashley” is commonly used in popular piercing culture, while professionals often call the placement an inverse vertical labret. A reliable documented origin for the nickname is not consistently established, so claims that it was named after one specific person should be treated cautiously.

Is an Ashley piercing inside the mouth?

Yes. It enters through the visible lower lip and exits on the inner surface of the lip. (Healthline)

Does an Ashley piercing damage teeth?

It can. The internal end may rub against gums, strike teeth, or damage dental restorations. Correct placement and shorter jewelry after swelling may reduce risk but cannot eliminate it. (ADA)

How long does an Ashley piercing heal?

Allow approximately three to four months as a practical planning estimate, with some piercers advising up to six months for complete healing. Individual healing varies. (Urban Body Jewelry)

Can I use a hoop in an Ashley piercing?

A hoop is not the normal initial jewelry for this placement. The appropriate shape depends on the channel and anatomy. Use only jewelry approved and fitted by a qualified piercer.

When should the jewelry be downsized?

Return after the initial swelling has subsided and the piercer confirms that a shorter post is appropriate. Do not rely on one fixed number of days because swelling and healing vary. (Safe Piercing)

Can I put lipstick on a healing Ashley piercing?

Avoid lipstick, gloss, foundation, skincare, and other cosmetic products on or near the healing opening. These products can introduce residue and create irritation. (Safe Piercing)

Can I remove it for work?

A fresh or healed piercing can begin shrinking quickly after jewelry removal. Discuss a safe, professionally fitted alternative before the procedure if workplace removal will be required. (Safe Piercing)

Is an Ashley piercing safe?

No piercing is risk-free. Skilled placement, sterile technique, suitable jewelry, downsizing, careful aftercare, and dental monitoring can reduce avoidable risks. The ADA still advises against cosmetic oral and perioral piercings because of possible negative oral-health outcomes. (ADA)

Final Takeaway

An Ashley piercing creates a distinctive single-gem appearance by passing through the center of the lower lip and exiting inside the mouth.

Its hidden oral end is also its main disadvantage. The jewelry can contact teeth and gums, collect plaque, become embedded, or cause long-term oral damage when placement, fit, hygiene, or follow-up care is poor.

Choose an experienced professional who evaluates the inside and outside of the lip, uses documented implant-grade jewelry, provides written aftercare, and schedules a downsize review. Clean the external opening with sterile 0.9% saline, maintain careful oral hygiene, avoid moving the jewelry, and do not change it prematurely.

Plan for several months of healing and arrange prompt assessment for worsening swelling, discharge, severe pain, embedding, breathing difficulty, tooth damage, or gum recession.

Readers comparing different facial-piercing placements can also review Headlinza’s septum piercing guide, which covers anatomy, jewelry, healing, studio selection, and aftercare for a piercing that does not normally contact teeth or gums. (HEADLINZA)

Medical disclaimer: This article provides general educational information and does not replace medical, dental, or professional piercing advice. Seek qualified care for oral-health concerns, infection symptoms, embedded jewelry, uncontrolled bleeding, or breathing and swallowing difficulties.